The Ultimate Cheat Sheet on Fancy Cut Diamonds: Which Shape Suits Your Style?

The Ultimate Cheat Sheet On Fancy Cut Diamonds: Which Shape Suits Your Style?

Diamonds

By: Guest Blogger, Ari Lopatin

Mar 04,2024

diamond shapes

Have you ever stared longingly at those round brilliant glittering diamonds and wondered why they all seem to be so perfectly round? Trust me, you're not alone! While round cut diamonds are undeniably classic and timeless, fancy cut diamonds (also known as fancy shaped diamonds) are often seen as the underdogs waiting for their moment to shine (pun intended) on an engagement ring or piece of jewelry. Today, let's explore the often-overlooked realm of fancy diamonds. Prepare to get fancy! 

What Are Fancy Cut Diamonds? 

A "fancy diamond" might sound extravagant, but in this case, it simply means any diamond shape that isn't round. As for the "cut," we're talking about how the diamond is expertly sliced and diced to make it sparkle like a brilliant disco ball. Fancy cut diamonds have been around since the Renaissance but gained serious traction in the 20th century as diamond cutting techniques improved. 

Why Choose a Fancy Cut Diamond? 

Okay, enough diamond puns…let's get into the nitty-gritty. Why would you go for a fancy shaped diamond when the round brilliant cut diamonds are already so dazzling? Here are some compelling reasons: 

Unique Style 

If standing out is your thing, fancy cut diamonds are your go-to. Unlike the traditional round cut diamond, fancy shapes offer a unique look that immediately grabs attention. Whether you choose an elegant emerald cut, a romantic heart shape, or a classic princess cut, you’re making a style statement that is uniquely you. 

Larger Appearance 

Here’s a little optical magic for you—some fancy cuts can actually make the diamond appear larger than it really is! Cuts like the oval, pear, and marquise elongate the stone, giving the illusion of more surface area. So, if size matters to you but you're working within a budget, a fancy cut diamond can deliver the visual impact you desire. 

Types of Fancy Cut Diamonds 

Fasten your seat belts; we’re diving head first into the brilliant world of fancy cut diamonds: 

Princess Cut Diamonds 

Princess cut diamond

Description: Think of a square with pointed corners—like a little crown for your finger. 

 Best Uses: Great for engagement rings and stud earrings. 

 Benefits: Versatile and generally less pricey than round cuts. 

Oval Cut Diamonds 

Oval Cut Diamond

 Description: Imagine stretching a round diamond into an elongated circle. 

 Best Uses: Ideal for pendants and sophisticated rings. 

Benefits: Elongates the finger and appears larger than its actual size. 

Emerald Cut Diamonds 

Emerald Cut Diamond

 Description: A rectangle with cut corners, this one's all about elegant sophistication. 

Best Uses: Suits solitaire rings and upscale bracelets. 

Benefits: They can make the stone appear larger due to greater surface area. They can also make your fingers look longer due to the rectangular shape. 

Cushion Cut Diamonds 

Cushion Cut Diamond

 Description: Imagine a square with rounded corners—kind of like a pillow. Hence the name, "cushion." 

Best Uses: This cut is a stunner in engagement rings and looks fabulous in pendants too. 

Benefits: The rounded edges make it less prone to chipping, and it's known for its brilliant "fire," or the breaking of light into spectral colors.   

Pear Shaped Diamonds 

Pear shaped diamond

 Description: Picture a teardrop, or perhaps a raindrop that you’d be happy to see on a cloudy day! 

Best Uses: Makes an exceptional choice for pendants and earrings. Also adds a modern twist to engagement rings. 

 Benefits: The elongated shape can make fingers appear slimmer. It also combines the brilliance of round and marquise cuts. 

Asscher Cut Diamonds 

 

 Description: Think of a square emerald cut—lots of steps and parallel lines, like a pyramid when you look down into it. 

Best Uses: Vintage-inspired engagement rings or as side stones to complement a larger center stone. 

 Benefits: This cut's "hall of mirrors" effect offers a depth and elegance that's mesmerizing. 

Radiant Cut Diamonds 

Radiant Cut Diamond

 Description: This one's a hybrid—think of it as the offspring of a cushion and a princess cut. 

Best Uses: A versatile choice, radiant cuts are often found in both modern and traditional style jewelry, particularly engagement rings. 

 Benefits: Its 70 facets maximize the effect of its color refraction, making it one of the most brilliant of all the fancy shapes.   

Marquise Cut Diamonds 

marquise diamond

 Description: This cut is shaped like a little boat. If you look closely, you might even see it sailing into a glittering future! 

Best Uses: Adds a touch of grandeur to engagement rings and solitaire pendants. 

 Benefits: Its elongated shape can make your finger look longer and more slender. 

Heart-Shaped Diamonds 

heart shaped diamond

Description: It’s exactly what it sounds like—a diamond cut in the shape of a heart. How much more romantic can you get? 

 Best Uses: Perfect for sentimental gifts like pendants and anniversary rings. Look gorgeous in an engagement ring, as well. 

 Benefits: The heart shape is a surefire way to add sentimental value and emotional significance to your piece. 

Certainly, a detailed discussion on factors to consider when buying fancy cut diamonds can help guide your readers to make an informed decision. Here's how the section could look with the expanded bullet points: 

Factors to Consider When Buying 

You’re sold on the idea of a fancy cut diamond—awesome! Understanding the unique characteristics of different diamond shapes can help you make an informed choice for that special piece of jewelry. But wait, before you hand over that credit card or click “Purchase,” let's go over a few crucial considerations to keep in mind: 

Cut Quality: When we talk about "cut," we're diving into how well the diamond has been crafted to reflect the light that goes into a diamond and then returns to your eyes. Factors like symmetry, proportion, and polish come into play here. A well-cut diamond will have uniform facets, balanced proportions, and a superior finish. These elements combine to create a stone that truly sparkles. Ignore this, and you could end up with a diamond that’s all rough and no diamond! 

Carat Weight: Ah, the 'C' we all know and love. But size isn't everything, friends! Carat weight should be balanced with the overall aesthetics of the jewelry piece. A heavier carat weight will undoubtedly add more sparkle, but keep in mind the setting and how the diamond complements it. A 2-carat marquise might look amazing but remember, too much bling can sometimes be a not-so-good thing! 

Color and Clarity: While these elements are crucial for all diamonds, they manifest differently in fancy cuts. For instance, emerald and Asscher cuts have a large "table" that can make inclusions more visible. On the flip side, radiant and princess cuts can hide imperfections well. Color may also appear more concentrated in the corners of some fancy shapes. Basically, know your 4Cs but apply them differently for fancy cuts. 

Settings: The throne for your gem, the setting can either make or break the diamond's appearance. For elongated shapes like oval and marquise, a setting with V-prongs can protect the pointed tips. Meanwhile, a bezel setting can complement the clean lines of an Asscher or emerald cut. Also, consider halo settings for smaller stones; the additional diamonds can make your center stone look larger and more radiant. 

Pros and Cons of Fancy Cut Diamonds 

 

Hold onto your hats, diamond fans, because we're about to unveil the good, the bad, and the sparkly of fancy cut diamonds: 

Pros 

Versatility: Fancy cut diamonds come in a smorgasbord of shapes and styles, so you're bound to find one that screams "you." Whether you’re after something timeless like a cushion cut or you're seeking the ultimate declaration of love with a heart-shaped stone, the sky's the limit. Essentially, you can match your diamond to your personality, making your piece of jewelry truly one-of-a-kind. 

Cost-Efficiency: Let’s talk money, honey! As we mentioned earlier, fancy cut diamonds are generally more cost-efficient than round cut diamonds. Why? They utilize more of the rough stone and create less waste. That means you can either save a little cash or opt for a larger stone without sacrificing quality. It's a win-win! 

Uniqueness: Round cut diamonds are everywhere, but fancy cuts are for those who dare to be different. Your jewelry piece will not just be another ring or pendant; it will be a statement. It’s like wearing a piece of art that resonates with your individuality. 

Cons 

Imperfections: While all diamonds have some level of internal or external characteristics—known as inclusions and blemishes—some fancy cuts make these more visible. For instance, the large table of an emerald cut could highlight imperfections that would be less noticeable in a more brilliant cut like the round. The takeaway? Always pay close attention to the clarity grade. 

Size Deception: Some fancy cut diamonds can be a little sneaky. Even though they may weigh the same as round diamonds, their dimensions can make them appear smaller or larger. For example, the marquise and pear cuts may appear larger than their actual carat weight due to their elongated shapes, whereas an Asscher cut may look smaller because of its depth. Therefore, always consider the dimensions and not just the carat weight. 

FAQs: Quick Tips for Buyers 

 

Got questions? We’ve got answers. If you're still unsure or just want to know a bit more before taking the plunge, here are some frequently asked questions to guide you: 

How do I choose the best fancy cut? 

The "best" fancy cut diamond is really a matter of personal preference and the specific needs of the piece you're creating. Ask yourself, what are you looking for—vintage charm, modern allure, or romantic flair? Consider how the diamond will be worn (daily or occasionally) and its setting when making your decision. Also, consult with a professional jeweler who can help you navigate through the dizzying array of choices. 

Do fancy cut diamonds sparkle less? 

The degree of sparkle—or "brilliance," in diamond lingo—varies from one fancy cut to another. For example, radiant and cushion cuts are designed to maximize brilliance, while emerald and Asscher cuts offer a more subdued, elegant gleam. So no, fancy cuts don't necessarily sparkle less; they just sparkle differently. Know what kind of light show you’re after! 

Is it harder to maintain a fancy cut diamond? 

Fancy cut diamonds aren't necessarily more difficult to maintain than round cuts, but they may have some unique needs. For instance, pointy edges on pear, marquise, and heart shapes could be more susceptible to chipping and should be set carefully to avoid damage. General maintenance like regular cleaning and occasional professional check-ups will keep your diamond looking its best. 

Are there ethical considerations with fancy cuts? 

The ethical considerations for fancy cut diamonds are the same as those for any other diamonds. Always look for stones that have been sourced responsibly and inquire about the diamond’s origin if known. 

Fancy cut diamonds offer a world of options that go beyond the classic round brilliant cut diamond, and what's more they come with some pretty fancy benefits too (pun absolutely intended). Whether you're shopping for a diamond ring or you are just a gem enthusiast, I hope this cheat sheet will help you navigate your next adventure. Until then, keep shining! 

CLICK HERE to meet with a Roman Jewelers Diamond and Jewelry Specialist with any questions you might have about the right diamond shape for you. We are always here to help! 

CLICK HERE to learn more about diamonds through GIA, the world's foremost authority on diamonds, colored stones and pearls.